What is an African Gazebo?

An African gazebo is a stunning rustic addition to any outdoor space. A gazebo is classified as a pavilion structure which is often built in a park, garden or public space. It is usually freestanding, has a roof and is open on all sides, providing shelter, shade, visual appeal and a versatile space for anything from a bandstand to a bar. What makes the African gazebo different, is that it is made of wood and has a beautiful thatch roof which reminds us of traditional African huts and lapas.

Why Should You Get One?

• They create a wonderful atmosphere, with a relaxed vibe that reminds us of holidays, tropical places or the bushveld.
• They are weather resistant and have a long lifespan. A treated timber frame will ensure that the gazebo is protected from rot and termites, while the thatch roof, if installed correctly, can also last many years. 
• They provide shade and shelter, but still allow you to enjoy the outdoors. An African gazebo with thatch will offer good protection from rain in wet weather and in the summer months the shade underneath will offer maximum UV protection and keep you at least 10 degrees cooler.

• They are proudly African! Southern Africa has a rich history of building with Cape reed thatch which is over 300 years old. By building an African gazebo you are celebrating a great African tradition and building style.
• They have so many uses: Use your gazebo as a shady picnic spot, a place to chill, an outdoor bar at your garden party, or the stage for live music entertainment. They also work really well for wedding venues, at spa resorts or in game reserve camps or picnic spots.

Tips for Building an African Gazebo

• African Gazebos can come in many shapes. Many are round to resemble a traditional hut or rondavel, but square or rectangular shapes also work. You can also use a hexagonal or octagonal shape. Choose a shape that will work for the way in which you want to use the gazebo.
• First construct the timber base of the gazebo and ensure that it is sturdy.
• Your roof should use thatching laths as the framework onto which the thatching reed will be fixed.
• Ensure that the thatched roof allows water to flow off effectively, as this will allow the thatch to last longer.
• You may choose to add railings on the sides of the African gazebo, or to leave them open.
• Flooring inside the gazebo is also optional.
• Spend some time choosing a good location for the gazebo and considering how it will tie into the landscaping around it.

We have all the materials needed to construct an African gazebo available at die Pale Depot and can help you to calculate the correct quantities of treated poles, thatching laths and thatching reed needed to build it.

The post Amazing African Gazebos appeared first on Die Pale Depot.

There are various factors to think about in terms of safety and practicality. The advantages of using treated wood are mainly that the wood lasts longer, especially when subjected to harsh weather conditions, insects and water logging. However, there are also instances where using untreated timber is definitely more suitable or where either one could work. Untreated timber costs less and is better for use indoors, in more sheltered spots or where people will come into direct contact with the wood.  

When should you NOT use untreated timber?

In the following instances it would be more advisable to use treated timber in terms of safety, longevity of the wood and practicality.

• Use pressure treated wood in any situation where there is direct contact between the wood and moisture. This obviously includes constructions partially submerged in the water like a jetty on a dam, which would rot very quickly if not built with treated timber. (Saltwater structures need even more protection from the elements.) It also includes posts buried in the ground (like for a fence), or any timber that is heavily exposed to the elements like a carport.
• When you need protection from insects, treated lumber is also very advantageous. Treated wood is resistant to insects like termites that cause huge amounts of damage, which can be costly to repair.
• Treated timber can also be fire retardant, taking longer to catch on fire and burning much more slowly when it does. This is another factor to consider when choosing which type of wood to use.

(These types of applications usually fall in the categories H4 to H6 on the South African hazard classification system. Read more about this here.)

When can you use untreated timber?

Untreated timber is cheaper than treated wood, as it has not undergone the pressure treatment process. You may also prefer untreated wood as it is more natural and has not been treated with chemical substances and there is no colouring (like the greenish tinge with CCA) or smell (like with creosote). 

In the following situations untreated timber can be used:

• For indoor use untreated wood is better as there is no need for protection against harsh weather conditions and the area is completely dry. Mouldings and floorboards don’t require treated wood and are also fairly safe from insects.
• When people are in direct contact with the wood using untreated wood is better and safer. Use untreated wood for a foldable picnic table for example, where one might eat food that has been placed on the wood directly. Children’s toys or items used for serving food will also use untreated timber.
• In some cases a combination can work well: For example using treated timber in the beams supporting a deck or for subflooring (which is hidden and covered by other materials), but using untreated wood for the surface area.
• You can also use untreated timber for playground equipment, patio furniture or benches which are not overly exposed.
• Untreated timber can also be used for gardening, such as making a raised garden bed, a flowerpot or mulch.

We stock a large variety of untreated and treated timber and can assist you with choosing the right type of wood for your project.

The post When to use Untreated Timber appeared first on Die Pale Depot.

A swing

Most of us have fond childhood memories of sitting on a swing, dangling our legs and flying through the air… Constructing the wooden frame for a swing only requires a few solid beams to construct an A-frame type of structure securely fastened with nuts and bolts or use brackets. The swings themselves can be attached with rope or metal chains which are sturdier. Ready-made swing seats which include the chains can be bought or you could use a wooden board or an old tire as the seat. Here are some instructions for building your own swing set: https://oldsaltfarm.com/how-to-build-a-wooden-swing-set/

A tree house

A wooden tree house is a dream for any kid with a sense of adventure! Choose a strong tree with branches that spread out widely not too far above ground for building this cosy little hide-out. About 2,5m above ground is a good height, as it’s exciting enough, but not too scary for kids, and high enough for adults not to bump their heads against when walking underneath the tree house. Adding braces at the base of your tree house will help to stabilize the structure. Apart from the basic platform of the wooden treehouse you could consider adding a ladder, railing, a roof etc to improve it. Here is a good step by step guide to constructing a treehouse:  https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-treehouse/

A jungle gym

Climbing around on a jungle gym is not only great entertainment for the kids, but actually good for their athletic skills and overall fitness. Keep your kids healthy, active and promote outdoor exploration. There are many variations and designs for a jungle gym and it can easily be combined with other playground items like a swing or a slide. Here are instructions for a rustic wooden design: https://www.sawpa.co.za/diy-projects-monkeying-around

In South Africa, building a fun outdoor playground area for your kids will never be a waste with the many days of sunshine we get to enjoy! You could also build a see-saw with just a few wooden beams, some other constructions to climb, add some benches for adults to sit on while they watch the children – or even build an outdoor gym to keep the grown-ups busy and motivated.

The post Playground Timber Projects appeared first on Die Pale Depot.

1. South Africa is a lightly forested country with a plantation area of about 1,27 million ha or about 1% of the total South African land area. Most of South Africa’s forestry plantations are located in Mpumalanga and KwaZulu-Natal. Other plantations are spread across the Eastern Cape, Limpopo and the Western Cape.

2. The South African forestry industry employs about 160 000 people which also includes the pulp and paper industry, sawmilling, timber board and timber mining.

3. The forestry sector is significant for our economy and is responsible for 11% of the country’s agricultural GDP and 5% of manufacturing GDP.

4. The forest products industry also ranks among the top exporting industries in the country. 

5. South Africa has an amazing biodiversity with more than 1 700 tree and shrub species. Some are threatened, and 47 species are protected.

6. National Arbour Week is celebrated every year around the first week in September, to promote the planting of indigenous trees.

7. Commercial forest plantations meet most of South Africa’s demand for wood, making the country mainly self-sufficient with regard to timber requirements. Plantations of exotic species are commercially successful and cover about 1,2% of arable, agricultural land.

8 There are three main types of trees that grow on commercial South African plantations: pine (44%), Eucalyptus (44%) (also known as blue gum) and wattle (12%).

9. The plantation forests of South Africa use just 3% of the country’s total water resources. Irrigation is never utilised in forest plantation management, but this means that rainfall needs to be higher than 750 mm per year in areas where commercial forestry is practised.

10. The commercial forestry industry in South Africa is committed to sustainable forest management and follows strict environmental codes of practice in all plantations and processing activities. Specific species of trees are planted, harvested and replanted in sustainable rotation. This process ensures that there are trees at various stages of maturity, ready to harvest for generations to come…

The post 10 Facts about the Forestry Sector in South Africa appeared first on Die Pale Depot.

1. Get some privacy

It’s very useful to be able to screen of parts of your garden or your whole garden from neighbours or people walking past your property on the street. Even if you don’t want a solid screen to block all visibility, it could be nice to have just a bit more privacy when you sit outside.

2. Hide unsightly areas or boundary fences

Wooden and reed screens appear more natural than other types of fences or boundaries and can soften the look. If you have certain problem spots outside that you want to cover, a wooden or reed screen can help. Hide those eye-sores that are spoiling the view – like pumps, generators, aircons, dustbins or your compost heap – from view.

3. Make a pergola

Enhance your patio by adding a lovely rustic pergola for some dappled shade and ambiance. Pergolas can be made of more spread out larger beams which have bigger gaps between them, but using laths or reeds that are more tightly packed together provides extra shelter from the sun and a more secluded atmosphere.

4. Get shelter from the wind

Wooden screens and reed screens can provide ideal windbreaks in your outdoor areas. Because the screens are not solid like a wall, the wind can pass gently through the gaps and will not tear down the screens or cause violent winds to blow over the top and cause more damage. You can create a cosy sheltered corner in your garden or even a kind of round “boma” or a “lapa” structure for safari-style braais in your backyard.

5. Use the screen as a trellis

Allowing climbing plants grow up onto a wooden screen not only provides stability for the plant but also creates a lush green “wall”. Try it with grapevines, ivy, grenadillas, sweet peas, clematis or nasturtiums.

6. Create shade for a carport

Using laths or reed to create the walls or roof of a semi-sheltered carport works well to provide a bit of protection from the elements.

7. Give your garden a tropical look

Nothing gives a Hawaiian or coastal feel like adding reeds and other leafy materials to the décor. Create a fun Tiki bar or build a gazebo using natural materials and let your guests feel like they’re at the beach!

If you’re keen to try any of these ideas don’t hesitate to ask us for advice! Have a look at some of our products which could come in handy for the applications above:

Laths

Spanish Reed

Thatch

The post 7 Uses of Wooden or Reed Screens appeared first on Die Pale Depot.

Installing a post in soil or gravel

This method can be used if you have very dense soil, but with good drainage. It requires a bit more labour and might be less stable than with concrete, but it is cheaper and the posts can last longer that those set in concrete, as water drains off more easily.

• Use posts made from very durable wood and/or treated wood. It must be suitable for “ground contact”.
• You can also treat the sawed-off exposed ends of the wooden pole with a preservative if necessary. Allow enough time for it to soak in and follow all safety precautions.
• Dig a hole that will allow about a quarter to a third of the post to be in the ground. If you’re planning to just use soil, make the diameter of the hole very close to the size of the pole. If you’re using gravel, make it a bit wider. Keep some of the soil to fill up the hole again later.
• Add gravel into the hole for improved drainage. Stomp it down with a stick or tamping bar.
• Place your post in the hole so that it’s straight and level with the other posts in the fence or structure.
• Get an assistant to hold it steady or secure it with stakes and screws to keep it in place.
• Add crushed stone or soil around the sides of the post to fill the rest of the hole. Tamp/ stomp the stones after each batch. If you want to plant grass around the post, use soil for the last layer.
• Make a small hill at the base of the post which slopes in all directions.

Installing a post with concrete

Concrete may be required if your soil is very loose and sandy and if you need additional stability. It’s advisable to use for gate posts for example, which may need to take more pressure than the other posts in a fence. The one problem with concrete is that it can trap water around the base of the post and cause it to decay faster. This is why it’s important to use concrete in a way that still allows drainage.

• Once again use posts made from very durable wood and/or treated wood. They must be suitable for “ground contact”.
• Dig a wide hole. For a standard fence post the hole should be about 30cm wide and the depth should allow for about 1/3 of the post to be underground. Add extra space below to accommodate the base. You can use a post hole digger or post driver to help create the hole.
• Add about 10-15 cm of gravel to the base of the hole to allow for better drainage.
• Position the post in the hole. Drop two stakes into the soil next to the post. Nail or screw two pieces of wood between the stakes and the post. This is just temporary to keep the post in place until the concrete has set.
• Repeat this process for all posts that require a concrete base.
• Add another layer of gravel around the base of the posts.
• Mix your concrete mixture.
• Fill the rest of the holes around your posts up to soil level.
• Trowel the concrete into a slope shape so that it slopes downwards from the pole. This helps to allow water to run off from the post and stop decay.
• Allow at least three days for the concrete to set before you continue building the fence or putting any weight on the post.
• Seal the gap between post and concrete with a sealant that bonds to concrete and wood.

NB: Do not enclose the base of the pole completely in concrete as this will cause water to collect there and the pole to rot.

Feel free to contact us if you need any more tips or advice on how to set a wooden post the right way. If you need instructions on how to install a whole fence read our article: How to build a wooden fence.

The post How to Install a Wooden Post Correctly appeared first on Die Pale Depot.

Garden furniture ideas:

Benches

Build a peaceful garden bench in a beautiful spot. It’s the perfect place to sit with a cup of coffee, to read a book or to use creatively for your park bench workout. Your pets might even thank you. Try this garden bench plan.

Tables

It’s handy to have a convenient surface for placing food and drinks when you’re having a braai, picnic or family meal outside. Or use your wooden garden table to work outside for an hour or two for a change of scenery. You could even try something like this useful bar table.

Chairs

Rustic chairs to go around your wooden table are also practical. If you’re not using benches a sturdy wooden chair is even more comfortable, especially with a soft cushion. Watch this video on how to make a patio chair.

Deck chairs

Nothing says holiday like a deck chair, especially next to the pool. All you need is a cocktail and you’re set for hours of relaxation. Here’s a plan for a DIY: deck chair.

General tips

• Start simple: If you’re not a seasoned DIY expert yet, start with something easy like a basic bench or a side table. Then move onto more complicated projects.
• Be safe: Remember to make your garden furniture safe for use. Give it a coat of paint or varnish to protect it and make sure there are no splinters that can hurt someone sitting down.
• Keep your garden furniture in good condition: If your bench or table is going to stay outdoors permanently you will need to do occasional maintenance. Furniture that’s not very weather proof should be kept somewhere dry and clean, while not in use. Give your outdoor cushion covers a good wash every now and then also.

Should I use treated timber?

For furniture that will stay in your garden or on your patio permanently and be exposed to harsh rain, wind or sun, having some kind of weather proofing is essential. If not, your furniture can rot quickly or get destroyed by insects. The last thing you want is for someone to sit down on a chair which suddenly breaks! CCA treated wood is very practical for this, as it is not dangerous after the treatment process and can preserve your furniture effectively. It also has no smell. Creosote treatment is not a good idea for furniture though, as it stains and can leave marks on clothes and fabric. If your furniture will be stored indoors or if it’s going to be in a sheltered spot, such as protected veranda with a roof, boron treated or untreated wood should be fine. If you’re unsure about what you need, don’t hesitate to ask our team at Die Pale Depot. We can help you to make the best decision and sell both treated and untreated wood.

The post Garden furniture inspiration appeared first on Die Pale Depot.

There are many reasons why one might need or want to build a fence: for safety, privacy, to mark a clear boundary, for improving the look of your property, keeping animals in an enclosure or keeping wildlife out of your garden. Although there are such a variety of styles for wooden fences, the basic steps to building a wooden fence are similar. Here are some useful tips to get you started:

Planning and Preparation:

• Check bylaws and regulations in your area. Make sure that the fence you want to put up does not contradict any laws in your municipality or complex. There may be restrictions on where a fence can be erected and the height.
• Choose the best wood for your needs. Decide which type of wood you would like to use and also which type of treatment will be necessary. (Our previous article on types of wood treatment may help.)
• Decide on a style of fencing. There are various types to choose from: picket, lattice, post ‘n rail (ranch style), board on board and many others.
• Also choose the height and length of fence you would like to go with, and order the correct amount of wood. Around 1,8m is normal for a privacy fence, a livestock fence only needs about 1,2m, and picket fences can be even lower at around 90cm.

Constructing the Fence:

• Place stakes at the corners roughly where you wish your fence to go. Then tie string/rope around the stakes and string it between stakes.
• Stake the middle posts. Measure out lengths of 20cm or less along the strings once you’ve squared your corners and stake those spots for your support posts.
• Dig holes at the locations you staked. The posts need to be buried at least 33% as deep as they are tall (example: if the post is 150cm long, 50cm need to be underground).
• Place the posts. Add a few centimeters of gravel at the base of the hole. Then insert the pole and get it straight. (You can use a post leveller.)
• While holding the post in position add concrete mix into the hole around it. Add water from the top and stir it with a stick to mix the cement. Keep the post steady (with nailed boards if needed) until the concrete has set.
• Fill the rest of the hole with soil after the concrete has set.
• Add a builder’s/ mason’s line from one post to another so that your fence will have the same height throughout.

• Add horizontal boards to go across the posts with decking screws. The horizontal support boards shouldn’t be more than 60cm apart, so most fences will have about 2 or 3 horizontal rails.
• Finally add the privacy boards (also called vertical boards or pickets), which cover the fence. There are various options depending on the style you chose. For a basic board on board fence use a nail gun to attach the fence boards to the horizontal beams, with less than a board length between them.
• Once your fence is done you could paint the fence of apply another weather proof finish. With good maintenance a sturdy wooden fence can last 20 years or more and add great value to your property.

If you need wood for building your fence, advice on how to construct it or assistance with measurements and working out quantities – our team at Die Pale Depot can help!

The post How to build a wooden fence appeared first on Die Pale Depot.

Wood is a wonderful material to use for all kinds of structures. Warm, natural, durable and versatile. However, there are a few elements that can affect the durability of wood, especially if exposed to the forces of nature. The main factors causing wood to deteriorate are:

• different types of fungi
• insects, such as wood borers, termites and even
  marine borers and molluscs if the wood is submerged in water
• fire
• weathering

Because of these threats, it is important to protect wood from being damaged and to choose a suitable type of treatment process that will be ideal for your purposes.

Types of treatments used:

When it comes to wood preservation there are 3 groups of preservatives commonly used:

1. water-borne preservatives such as CCA (fixed) or borate (non-fixed)
2. oil-borne substances such as creosote
3. light organic solvent-borne preservatives

At die Pale Depot we mainly supply CCA-treated timber. However, boron- or creosote-treated timber is available on request. We also offer untreated wood. What do each of these types of treatments entail and what applications are they suitable for?

CCA-treated timber

CCA stands for copper-chrome-arsenic, which are all heavy duty wood preservatives. Copper is a fungicide and arsenic is an insecticide and additional fungicide. The chrome component acts as a fixing agent. CCA is applied to the wood by vacuum pressure impregnation. CCA-treated timber has a light greenish tint of colour, is totally odourless (unlike for example creosote) and the final product can be easily painted. CCA-treated timber makes use of dangerous chemicals during the process of treatment, but once these are absorbed into the wood they are no longer toxic, unless burnt. CCA-treated timber is ideal for applications such as roof structures, fences, gardening structures or wooden screens.

Boron-treated timber

Borates and boron compounds can be applied by using a dip diffusion treatment to green (freshly felled) wood or as a vacuum pressure process to dry wood. There is no colouring like with other types of treatment and the wood can be painted, glued or stained when dry. Boron treatment is environmentally safe, protects against insects and fungus and acts as a flame retardant. The chemicals used in the process remain water-soluble though, so this type of timber should mostly be used indoors. If used outdoors it should be in a place where the wood is not touching the ground and not going to get very wet.

Creosote-treated timber

In South Africa creosote and mixtures of creosote and coal tar solutions are used. Creosote is an oil-borne preservative which is applied in hot and cold open baths or in vacuum pressure impregnation plants at high temperatures. Creosote a very strong chemical which is toxic to fungi and insects and also highly water-repellent. Creosote-treated wood is very durable and weather resistant and can be used outdoors and in water even. The treated wood has a characteristic smell and a thick black or dark brown colour. Creosote is great for heavy duty applications such as electricity/ telephone poles, railway sleepers, bridges or wooden jetties, but should definitely never be used indoors.

Untreated timber

Of course there is also the option of not treating the timber at all. In many cases you might not require treated wood, because the place where you plan to use it does not require a weather- or insect-proof product. Or you could be planning to put a simple varnish or paint on the timber yourself. Untreated timber of course has no chemical smell or new colouration and is not toxic at all, but if placed outside will decay over time.

Choosing the right type of treatment for your needs:

In South Africa, the amount of exposure, which the wood will be subjected to, gets classified into different “hazard” categories. These help determine which type of wood treatment should be used:

• H0-I INTERIOR: Interior use only, for example mouldings or floorboards. Minimal insect and fungal protection needed.
• H1: Not applicable in South Africa, but applies to other countries which have no termites.
• H2 INTERNAL (LOW HAZARD): Also interior only for things like roof trusses and window frames. CCA and boron treatments can be used here.
• H3 EXTERIOR ABOVE GROUND (MODERATE HAZARD): For example outdoor decking, balustrades and garden furniture. Mostly CCA and creosote used here.
• H4 GROUND CONTACT (HIGH HAZARD): Fencing, pergolas or carports where the wood needs more protection as it goes into the groundand can rot more easily.
• H5 FRESHWATER (HIGH HAZARD): Exposed to freshwater consistently, such as jetties or walkways.
• H6 MARINE (HIGH HAZARD): Same as H5, but with saltwater.Only CCA together with creosote treatments will protect against marine borers and keep the wood from being destroyed.

In general, when deciding on what type of timber treatment you need it is important to consider the following:

• how much weathering will the wood be exposed to (which hazard level)
• how exposed will the wood be to pests
• how dangerous for humans and animals are the chemicals used
• what is the function of the timber

At die Pale Depot we focus mainly on CCA-treated and untreated timber products for the types of applications our customers are interested in. We are also able to supply boron-treated and creosote-treated wood on request. Our team is always available to discuss what type of wood product and what type of treatment you require for your specific project and we’d love to offer you our expert advice.

The post Types of wood treatment appeared first on Die Pale Depot.

Where does thatching come from?

Thatched roofing is an ancient form of roof covering used by many cultures across the world. When the first farmers and fishermen started to need more durable housing than nomadic hunter-gatherer cultures, building with materials like thatching reed became more common. Some of the first thatched houses were built in what is now Northern Germany and Denmark. In most of Europe, thatch was the only roofing material used by people in rural areas until the late 1800s. Almost every civilization and area across the world had its own material (grass or reeds to palm leaves), style and roof thatching technique. In areas such as Fiji palm, leaf roofs were combined with layered reed walls. The Mayans and Incas on North America also lived in thatched buildings.

In Southern Africa thatched roofs also have an interesting history. Traditional African homesteads were built with materials from savannah grasslands. When European settlers came into contact with this type of housing they incorporated their own thatching and building style with this. Today thatching is used for its historic value or natural beauty and rustic charm.

The advantages of thatch

• Thatch was traditionally used because it utilized local vegetation as a low-cost building material. In more affluent areas it is a roofing option of choice for those who want a rustic look for their home, an eco-friendly roof, or to maintain an originally thatched building.
• Thatch has some natural properties that are advantageous to its performance. It is naturally weather-resistant, and when properly maintained does not absorb a lot of water.
• It also provides natural insulation thanks to air pockets within the thatch which insulate a building, providing cooler shade in summer and retaining heat in winter. African Cape Thatching Reed (which is the type offered at Die Pale Depot) is typically 10 degrees cooler than alternative roofing materials in the summer and 10 degrees warmer in the winter.
• Thatch also has very good wind resistance when constructed correctly.
• Because thatch is lighter than other materials, less timber is required in the roof that supports it.
• Thatch is a versatile material especially for oddly shaped roof structures. Its a sustainable material and also does not need to use standard dimensions to be effective.

How can thatch keep water out?

When rain hits a roof it does not strictly follow the laws of gravity and will happily run across a surface, as long as it’s in a downwards direction. As long as both thatch and roof structures are at the correct angle (at least 50 degrees) water will not penetrate more than about 2cm and the thatch layer will keep the rain away from the rest of the structure.

How flammable is thatch?

Thatch is not as much of a dangerous fire hazard as many people believe. Usually a faulty chimney or wood burner cause the fired to start in the first place, but the roof burns slowly. Ensuring that the chimney is in good condition and possibly removing thatch immediately around the chimney can reduce the risk considerably. Fire retardants can also lower the risk of fire spreading. However insurance premiums for thatched houses are often higher because of the perceptions that they are more risky and because thatched roofs are more costly to replace than other materials.

How long does thatch last?

As nearly every thatch roof is a unique combination of size, shape and location of the roof; materials and thatching skills, it is difficult to predict the roof’s longevity exactly. Basically the drier the environment is the better; the faster the roof dries out the longer it will last. So a windy hilltop location is better than a sheltered valley. Being organic products, all thatching materials will eventually decay in an outside environment. Cape thatching reed has a typical life span of around 30+ years.

If you’re interested in using thatch for your home, building a lapa, thatch rondawel or African gazebo – contact us for thatching reed as well as laths to use in the structure of the roof.

The post All about thatch appeared first on Die Pale Depot.